A pack of rabid dogs

I had a pretty normal day. I took my almost three-year-old shopping for a few new movies at MBK, met up with my husband and five-year-old for lunch at Siam Paragon and then came home to relax a bit before heading to the store and being instructed to take the waiting tuk tuk through the rabid pack of wild dogs milling on our side street. Oh, screeching halt. Rabid dogs in a pack... not so normal.

After stocking up on just a couple necessary items for tonight's teriyaki dinner, I started the walk home with a highly iced beverage in hand. I was humming along to my kids favorite theme song (stuck in my head) and enjoying the satay stand operators friendly smiles. Until half-way home, I saw a small crowd gathered in the middle of the street and looking further down the road a group of about sixteen dogs milling about the street. A tuk tuk and two motorbike taxis were taking members of the crowd slowly through the dogs and depositing their passengers on the other side.

Waiting for just a couple of minutes, I climbed on my designated motorbike and the driver shrugged his shoulders and said, "Rabies. Free." I was dropped just beyond the dogs and the motorbike ventured through the pack again to pick up another passenger. The walk home ranks up there with one of my oddest moments in Thailand to date. And, I must admit, riding with your ankles dangling at mouth level near a pack of rabid dogs does get the adrenaline pumping. I had desperately been hoping for the tuk tuk instead of the motorbike.

Cooking in Thailand, entry no. 46:

Lemon Grass Martinis

A perfect drink to calm the nerves and refresh the palette. Great thanks to my mother who, while visiting, was my guinea pig for this recipe. Here's the improved version, Mom! *wink*

Ingredients:

6 stalks of lemon grass (1 stalk set aside, 5 stalks cut into 1/2 inch pieces)*

1 cup of water*

juice of 1 lemon*

1 teaspoon honey

2 shots of vodka

1 small wedge of lemon

Ice for shaking

Method:

In a small saucepan, add water, 5 stalks of sliced lemon grass and the lemon juice. Bring to a simmer and cook over low heat for five minutes. Set aside and allow to cool completely. Strain and add juice of one lemon. Place 1 teaspoon of honey into a martini glass and place glass into freezer (can be done far in advance). Take reserved lemon grass and cut into a two inch spear. Pound one end slightly and thread a lemon wedge onto the stalk. In a shaker, add 1 shot of the lemongrass mixture, 2 shots of vodka and a handful of ice. Shake. Strain into frozen glass and garnish with prepared lemon grass spear.

*The combination of these ingredients will create more than necessary for one drink. Save any leftovers in the fridge for up to one month.

Hold on to your stilettos!

For all of those who love me, I feel oddly compelled to apologize for my actions today. Zipping through our sub sois on the back of a motorbike taxi was thrilling!

Ever since our arrival in Bangkok, I have watched our neighborhood burst with life. And, a huge, colorful part of that life includes the motorbike taxis. In our neighborhood, this means about 15 guys wearing orange cotton vests rapidly riding, sans helmets, through the side streets, picking up passengers and then delivering their passengers to main roads. The incentive for the passenger? Cheap fare, fast and readily available service.

So, since it was too early for our driver and I had already spent numerous weeks declining the request for a motorbike pick-up, I figured it was time to take part in the motorbike taxi experience... just once.

Local women sit side saddle, with their 3-inch stilettos daintily crossed, holding on with one hand as they fly down the middle of the street. Truly an impressive feat and one that I appreciate even more so after today. I opted for the "jump on the bike, hold on for dear life (in my 3-inch stilettos, naturally....) and wrap my arms way to tightly for his comfort around the driver" position. This barely served me well enough as we careened down the streets at what I gathered was farang-pace (aka slow, for the scared foreign gal). 

Frankly, though, the combination of fear for my life, running over already squished frogs in the roadway and sweating from the grip I had on the driver was enough for me from the local motorbike scene.

As thrilling as it was, for the sake of my family, it will be a long, long while before I hop on the back of a bike again.

Cooking in Thailand, entry no. 16:

Philippine Ribs

A new friend cooked these for us and my kids lives have never been the same since! They devour these and then ask for more.

Ingredients:

2 racks of spare ribs, cut into seperate pieces

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup terriyaki sauce

3 tablespoons brown sugar

Juice of 4 limes

1 bird's eye chili, diced

Method:

Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl and marinate overnight. To bake, place ribs on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil or parchment paper. Cook for approximately 30 minutes at 375 degrees (or until meat is tender and almost falls off the bone). Serve with rice, fresh pineapple and a lot of napkins!

Sorry Starbucks! Wow Wawee!

We found a new neighborhood hot spot (no pun intended!). Wawee Coffee (pronounced wah-wee) is such a welcoming oasis in the middle of busy Bangkok that we might very well have to say good-bye to our frequent Starbucks' stops. With a fairly large garden tucked behind the busy streets, Wawee has created a series of decks and bridges that seemingly float over Koi ponds and weave through lush tropical foliage. The ever-present incense floats through the air and hidden benches, a gazebo and market umbrellas are tucked throughout the setting to provide respite from the heat. Inside, chandeliers hang in cozy elegant rooms where patrons enjoy creamy, whipped cream topped creations and one of Bangkok's many ever present dessert cases continues to be refilled regularly.

T and I enjoyed a morning out on Saturday and discovered the joy of Wawee's relaxed atmosphere. Today, I shared it with the kids.

On our walk to the shop, we wove our way through a series of sky bridges (used to access the Skytrain or to cross major streets that you wouldn't dare cross at ground level) and side streets and alleys. In Bangkok, you do anything you can to avoid the traffic! And, during our walk we enjoyed the sites that have become 'normal'... the crazy motorcycle taxis where women sit side saddle, while wearing high heels!, the lines of food carts selling everything from BBQ meats to steaming bowls of ramen to beautifully sliced fresh fruit, and the golden wats perched in corners and adorned with incense, flowers and assorted tiny offerings. 

I snapped the picture at the left as we walked to Wawee Coffee this morning. The image provides a glimpse of a well established neighborhood walkway. This is a rare alleyway in which traffic is blocked from entering allowing the perfect location for a few stores, a fresh market on some days and a collection of spontaneously created restaurants every day starting at lunch time (created from the tables leaning against the wall). There is a wat in the background and, just through the gate, you can see a motorcycle taxi.

Upon arrival at our destination, F ordered what has become his regular drink here (100 per cent kiwi juice, with ice, thank you very much!). C didn't let the morning's climbing Celsius slow her down and ordered a steaming cocoa. She was thrilled with Wawee's buffet of sugar straws that accompanied her creamy concoction, no doubt. And, I ordered an iced tea with milk (known simply as 'Thai Iced Tea' in the States) and it was yummy. I asked how they made their version because it was markedly less sweet and less thick than the ones I've had before. When eating at Thai restaurants prior to arriving in Thailand, I had occasionally ordered a Thai Iced Tea and had always, no matter where I was, considered it a delicious treat. Funny how something authentic provides you with a new level of deliciousness! Wawee's authentic version consists of a simple ratio consisting of less sweetened condensed milk than other recipes that I've previously followed.

We left Wawee Coffee with a relaxed vibe that carried us throughout the rest of our morning's outings. And, we're already looking forward to our next visit.

Cooking in Thailand, entry no. 10:

Iced Tea with Milk

Burn a little incense, crank the heat up high, kick your feet up, throw in some noisy engine sounds masked by water features, don't move too quickly and you'll (almost) feel like you're in Bangkok with us.

Ingredients:

2 tea bags of Thai tea*

1 cup of boiling water

3 Tablespoons sweetened condensed milk, plus extra if desired

about 1/4 cup milk**

crushed ice

Method:

Pour boiling water over the tea bags and allow to steep for five minutes. Remove tea bags and place in refrigerator until cool (or use three tea bags and add a bit of ice to cool more rapidly). Once cool, fill a tall glass with crushed ice, pour tea to 3/4 of the glass and add the sweetened condensed milk (a little extra if you like it sweeter) and regular milk. You want to achieve about 1/4 of your cup full of the milk combination. It should be sweet, but just slightly, and the tea should provide a nice nutty, fragrant background to the sweetened milk. Stir well and serve with a straw. Sip slowly and enjoy.

*Can be found in the Asian foods section of most gourmet grocery stores or import stores. If you are unable to find Thai tea, look for an unflavored black tea instead.

**Use your choice of milk. Whole will create a creamier drink than non-fat, but both will create an enjoyable iced drink.

Popcorn and Politics

This morning was spent simply. After T went off to work, we continued to lounge in our jammies and had some great video calls to the States via skype. Then, we prepared to party along with a huge crowd in the USA. 

The kids enjoyed pretending to be popcorn kernals, popping in unison with those in the kettle on the stove. I made a strong brew of decaf french press and, after the popping extravaganza finished, we carried both my coffee and the steaming bowl of popcorn directly to the television set. And, from there we waved our "pretend" flags and clapped along every time the crowd did (and there's a lot of clapping!). We were moved by video images of a young man making his way in the world and growing into a presidential contender. "Mommy, its a party!" the kids proclaimed. And, there we sat, kids clapping, mama listening for the next hour as Barack Obama spoke to this year's Democratic National Convention. 

We spent Tuesday morning in a very similar fashion, as Hillary addressed the world. The kids got their first taste of US politics this week and I enjoyed a moment of realizing how small the world can sometimes feel. From half-way around the globe, the importance of this morning's speech was not lost.

Cooking in Thailand, entry no. 6:

Curried Popcorn

Delicious no matter what your political opinion!

Ingredients:

4 cups popcorn, popped

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon mild curry powder (any variety)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon cumin

Mix the spices together. Toss the popcorn with butter, stirring well. Add the spice mix and toss until lightly coated. (Enjoy with extra napkins by your side!)